Searching for delicious pig fat in Italy, Hog Heaven: Cutting the Lardo di Colonnata.
Some people might recoil at the idea, but there are few things as sublime as thin ribbons of pearly white lardo piled high on top of warm crostini. Though buttery in texture, it packs a complex flavor of herbs and spices borne on a subtle tide of brine. Years back, we'd sampled a northern Italian version of lardo, and marveled over the way, as it gently melted on the tongue, soft notes of rosemary and sage played on our taste buds. We discovered that every region in Italy makes its own particular lardo and that Colonnata's was the most prized. Naturally, we had to find out why.