Who’s behind the stove?

Today in the New York Times, Who Really Cooks Your Food?, an examination of the chefs behind the famous chefs at renowned high-end restaurants.

Alert restaurant customers already know that when a second in command is announced on a restaurant menu under the title of chef de cuisine or executive sous-chef, it signifies that the chef whose name is on the marquee might be a few blocks, or a few time zones, away.

Of course this isn't a surprise, though what was a surprise to me was the news that Eric Ziebold, Thomas Keller's chef de cuisine at the French Laundry, has resigned. According to this article, Keller is now back in California managing the relaunch of the French Laundry, which closed for renovations while his New York restaurant, Per Se, opened. Though Thomas Keller is my favorite chef, I haven't had much interest in eating at Per Se, simply because nothing could top my night at the French Laundry. And now that he's not even in the kitchen, I'm less inclined than ever.