For those wondering about the weather: it's wintery. For the first five days it was rainy but warmish, with spots of sun and an autumnal scent in the air. But then it abruptly changed two days ago and winter is upon us. I could see my breath when we exited the apartment yesterday and I'm thinking I might need to buy some gloves. Heat lamps are a must when sitting at the outdoor cafés, even if only to down a quick chocolate chaud or express.