Frank Bruni questions whether seasonal…

Frank Bruni questions whether seasonal eating is all that everyone claims but a commenter says it best: "Unseasonal eating is fine, depending on what season you’re talking about: Sausages in summer is a matter of taste, while tomatoes in January is unsustainable eating." Of course, in place of "unsustainable eating," I would have simply said "gross."

Summer slowdown

Things will be pretty slow around here for the next few days. Ruhlman's no longer around to pick up my slack, and I'm heading out of town for a long weekend visit with family. If time permits and inspiration hits, there will be updates. Otherwise, things will get back on track next week.

Gadget: Peppergun

Foil CutterI can't live without freshly ground salt and pepper in my kitchen, so I have two of these Nantucket Pepperguns: one in white for salt, one in black for pepper. The simple design lets you grind with one hand, so that you can use your other hand for stirring if you want. Another ingenious aspect of its design is the way you fill it. You twist the tube to reveal a hole, and in doing so, rotate the "ears" towards he back. Then you can lay the peppergun on the counter, supported by the ears at the back, with the hole pointed toward you, and easily fill with sea salt or whole peppercorns. I've used lots of different pepper grinders in my day, but this is far and away my favorite. Easy to use. Easy to refill. Easy to clean. I love it.

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