Into the meat night of the Bronx

Meatpacking Adam Kuban

Donning a white smock and white paper hat as required by federal law, I followed [chef Adam Perry] Lang inside these hallowed halls of prime and choice beef. My friend Adam heads to the Bronx at 1:30 AM to visit Master Purveyors, a meat distributor at the Hunts Point Cooperative Market. A big burger fan, Adam wanted to see the beef being ground. I love his photos of the steaks being dry-aged. I only wish he talked more about Master Purveyors and what makes their steaks so good.

Marco Pierre White never wanted three stars

Marco Pierre White Photo: Drew Gardner/eyevine/Zuma PressWhen I won my three stars, I realized that I'd worked for something all my life that I'd never wanted. Marco Pierre White talks about why he left the kitchen, about the American food scene and molecular gastronomy, and what happens when chefs keep their name on the door but no longer work behind the stove.

Does the quality suffer?

It can't be the same, can it? … I just think when you've got three stars, it's an issue of principle. Your name is above the door, you've got to be there. But that's me. We're all different.

I've never been a big Marco Pierre White fan but this interview was pretty interesting. I'm a sucker for tales of wisdom and experience and finding balance.

My last good idea was…

david_chang.jpgMy last good idea was my worst idea; every time my ego comes into it, it hinders the restaurant. David Chang calls Ssäm Bar “bad fusion” and talks about how a chef’s ego can get in the way of the food. Even though he just won the rising star award from the James Beard Foundation, I didn’t taste any ego when I ate there last night. The menu’s been changed a bit because of the season (no more brussels sprouts, sadly, but artichokes and asparagus are in play) but the food was as great as ever. And the Led Zeppelin cranked on the stereo keeps me coming back for more.