My last good idea was my worst idea; every time my ego comes into it, it hinders the restaurant. David Chang calls Ssäm Bar “bad fusion” and talks about how a chef’s ego can get in the way of the food. Even though he just won the rising star award from the James Beard Foundation, I didn’t taste any ego when I ate there last night. The menu’s been changed a bit because of the season (no more brussels sprouts, sadly, but artichokes and asparagus are in play) but the food was as great as ever. And the Led Zeppelin cranked on the stereo keeps me coming back for more.