Keller on cooking and success

There's a great interview with my hero Thomas Keller at Epicurious.com. In particular, his musings on passion and community echo my feelings and experience with food. (Interview questions in bold):

One of the great things about bistros, and not just about bistros but about cooking and dining in general, is the sense of community. Do you feel that?

It's a real social interaction, whether you're cooking or whether you're eating. You have to feel comfortable in your environment. In the restaurant, we enjoy doing what we're doing together. That's really one of the wonderful things about being in a kitchen environment where there's a common vision and a common goal and a common respect for what you're doing. It's like nothing else, it really is.

And that passion translates to the food?

You have to be emotionally attached. I cook because it fulfills something inside of me, satisfaction, gratitude, making somebody happy. It's all wrapped up in those emotions, and eating should be the same. I understand in modern society we can't always be emotionally connected to what we're eating and what we're doing, but there are those moments when we have to sit back and appreciate it and say, "Okay, this is that moment where I'm just going to relax and have this event."

At the end, Keller closes with one of the best things I've ever heard:

"I think one of the true meanings of success is creating a memory for somebody."

Also included are menus, a cooking demo by Keller, and a video tour behind the scenes at Per Se all accessible from this page. I really need to start saving for a Per Se visit.

The joy of a nice knife

One of the things I realized while working at the restaurant on Nantucket was how dull my knives were at home. At Fifty-Six everyone's knives were razor sharp, and it made slicing and dicing nearly effortless, albeit dangerous. When I got home I got a stone and spent about an hour sharpening my two knives: an 8" chef's and a 4" paring, both from Henckels. (I have a few other knives, but I find I never use them. These two do the trick for all my home cooking needs.) Today's New York Times looks at knives and the trend for Japanese knives in, When a Knife Is the Gleam in a Cook's Eye.

There's a whole world of useless kitchen gadgetry out there, junk that will clutter your cabinets and ultimately make little difference in the quality of food you cook. But knives are an exception (another exception: pots/pans). Quality knives make all the prep jobs easier because they provide more control and cleaner cuts, and they're a pleasure to use. While they are expensive, they last forever and are a worthwhile investment. I bought my 8" in 1995 and have used it nearly every day since. My 4" was purchased in 1998.

As the gentleman says at the end of the Times article, "You know you've got the right knife when you're getting as much joy from preparing dinner as you are from eating it."

Pale Male and the City

I missed a great essay yesterday from MUG entitled, Why Pale Male Matters. (For those who aren't aware, Pale Male (and his mate Lola) are red-tailed hawks that have lived for 11 years in a nest they built on the cornice of a Fifth Avenue co-op overlooking Central Park. A week ago, the co-op board removed the nest, leaving the hawks homeless. Protesters have been at the scene ever since, as the hawks float overhead.) Editor Charlie Suisman writes:

'What sort of city shall we be?' isn't a question that most New Yorkers take time to answer in their course of their daily lives. It's a question that gets asked and answered at moments of disruption (blackout? block party!) and deeply, urgently in moments of tragedy…

[Y]ou truly become a New Yorker when the city seems more to you than your workplace and a collection of shops and restaurants, when you start caring about the city itself, beyond your daily route, outside of your neighborhood, about the city we were and the city we might become. You know you're a New Yorker when you know what kind of city we are…

927 Fifth Avenue board president Richard Cohen and his wife, Paula Zahn failed to understand the public, communal, and civic space that is the sine qua non of New York. They failed to understand that they, like all the rest of us, are guardians of this city first and foremost. And when something belongs to the city, as Pale Male and family so manifestly do, and they are treated so cavalierly, as Cohen and Zahn so manifestly did, the arrogance becomes untenable. And untenable arrogance has a way of meeting comeuppance in this city.

The outpouring of support for Pale Male has been incredible and it's moments like these (and essays like Suisman's) that remind and clarify for me why I love New York. And the good news? Today's New York Times reports, Co-op to Help Hawks Rebuild, but the Street Is Still Restless. Yay!

Also, a humorous examination of the price of Pale Male's perch at Curbed.

The best chocolate in Paris

From the Sunday New York Times comes this delicious article, In Paris, Boutiques and Cafes Where Chocolatiers Raise the Bar.

Herewith, then, a guide to Paris for the chocolate aficionado. It is by no means exhaustive; the Paris phone book has several pages of listings for chocolatiers, but I think this represents a selection of those most worthy of your time.

It contains a good listing of the top spots in the city. Closer to home, if your home happens to be New York City, is the Chocolate Bar. Oddly enough, I've never visited this place, even though it's so close to my house. When I first moved to NYC, I assumed I'd go here regularly, and yet it's never happened. Perhaps this afternoon I'll pay them a visit. All this reading and thinking about chocolate has made me hungry!

A sad breakup

I hadn't realized this, but apparently some time ago, Ken and Barbie — one of the world's most popular couples — broke up! It seems Barbie has a new boyfriend now, a fellow named Blaine. Here's a photo of the love birds released by their agent Mattel in 2003. Apparently friends and fans are not happy about the end of the nearly 50 year union between Barbie and Ken and have been posting angrily about it over at Amazon, as you can see in the customer reviews at Amazon for Barbie's New Boyfriend Blaine with Boogie Board, Surfer Gear & Exclusive 'Cali-Zine' Magazine. A reviewer named Kris writes:

Don't worry ladies. I'll deal with this Blaine guy for you…Once he's gone, Barbie can get over her little mid-life crises and get back with Ken. Then all will be right in the world again.

People really don't deal with break-ups well, do they? Even when the 'people' doing the breaking up are 11" plastic dolls.

Book giving ideas

Not from me this time, though if I read more new books I would recommend some too you. This one comes from the New York Times: 100 Notable Books of the Year.

This year the [New York Times] Book Review has selected 100 Notable Books from those reviewed since the Holiday Books issue of Dec. 7, 2003.

Sadly I've only read one on the entire list, The Island at the Center of the World: The Epic Story of Dutch Manhattan, the Forgotten Colony that Shaped America, which was great. 2004 has been my most pathetic year for reading. I used to read the number of books I've read this year in a week back in the day. Hopefully 2005 will be different.

Holiday present for an aspiring cook

Think Like a ChefOver the next few weeks, I may or may not continue to recommend things I love for your holiday gift consideration. But today I offer Tom Colicchio's Think Like a Chef. Mr. Colicchio is chef/owner of both (the amazing and yummy!) Gramercy Tavern and Craft, in New York City. This cookbook is less about recipes — though it certainly has them — and more about cooking technique and philosophy, enabling the reader to actually learn by doing rather than simply follow a list and instructions. I've found it very useful and informative and it's quickly become one of my favorites on my cookbook shelf. When I started working in the kitchen this past fall, I was surprised to find how much I already knew. This book contributed to my knowledge and made my transition from aspiring amateur to aspiring professional that much easier. A great gift for someone who really does want to learn how to, "think like a chef."

You do learn something new every day

And today I learned it's Brussels sprouts, not brussel sprouts. I guess I kinda of knew in the way back of my mind that there was some connection with Belgium, but not enough to realize it was Brussels sprouts. From Chez Panisse Vegetables by Alice Waters:

Brussels sprouts are a variety, gemmifera, of the cabbage species Brassica oleracea. Because of selective breeding done in the thirteenth century in Belgium, [B]russels sprouts do indeed look like tiny, perfectly formed cabbages. They grow on a heavy stock, several feet tall, with a few large leaves at the top. As with cabbage, there are both red and green varieties.

I guess the 's' is silent? I've never heard anyone say anything but, "brussel sprouts." Or maybe it's just me? Regardless, now's the season for these yummy sweet mini cabbages, and there's so many ways to prepare them. Tonight I'm just going slowly cook mine in some brown butter. But you could also make Martha Stewart's Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Apples. Mmm…now I'm hungry!

Good Bye Lenin

The other evening I finally got around to watching Good Bye Lenin!, a German film from 2003. Set in East Berlin prior to and following the fall of the Berlin Wall, it's the story of a boy (Alex) who's mother revives from a coma and can't be told about what's happened while she slept: that her beloved East Germany is no more. It was surprisingly funny, and very touching at times, as Alex and his sister struggle to recreate a quickly disappearing world in their mother's bedroom. It was definitely one of the better movies I've seen this year and I recommend it.

Late to the moblogging game

After nearly a day's worth of fiddling (and two years worth of delay in getting a mobile with a camera), I've got my phone posting photos to both Flickr and my new sidebar section Photographing. Right now the pictures are just junk shots from around the apartment as I trouble-shot many issues. And here's a weird one for those of you contemplating the Nokia 6600: I was unable to send my photos (as multimedia messages) to anyone until I'd first sent one to myself. Wha? Yup. That's what T-Mobile support told me.

I said to the woman, "Well it's good I called. How on earth was I supposed to figure that out? Why's it like that?"

And she said, "That's the way the system is designed."

Of course that's the way the system's designed. [Insert requisite rant about retarded systems design here.] Aside from that, I'm psyched for more moblogging about town. Now I just need to get out of my bathrobe and actually go "about town."